A Jewel: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

Off-Season Awesome!

Over the past two decades Ed and I have loaded our surfboards, paddleboards and fishing gear for adventures in my favorite Oregon beach town – Pacific City. Some of our most memorable stays have been as Fall segues into Winter. Off-season the crowds diminish. Often the only footsteps in the sand will be yours. This week (mid-September) as summer once again kissed Pacific City with cloudless skies and warm temperatures, I stayed at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda. Over the decades I have enjoyed the Inn often – but this time the level of beach-elegant hospitality hit a new high.

Noble House Hotels & Resorts, the family-owned boutique hotel brand, is now part owner and operator of three properties in Pacific City: Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, Inn at Cape Kiwanda, and Hart’s Camp, alongside founders and owners Jeff Schons and Mary Jones. No matter the season or the diversity of coastal weather, services and amenities abound at the Inn and sister properties. Your unforgettable adventures are their goal.

I am a laid back surfer used to sand between my toes and gnarly waves showing me who’s boss. But at the end of the day, loaded with sunscreen and shivering in spite of a 5/4 wetsuit, I want luxury. Yup, that’s me in the photo below.

I don’t mean to wax poetic about my bathroom at the Inn but some details must be shared. Thick, thirsty towels and shower tiles the color of the sea in late afternoon, the details of lighting and modern fixtures combine to enhance the entire experience: spa-like. Whether you have just walked the dune all sticky now with sunscreen or have pulled off your wetsuit shivering and salty- the shower is heaven. Once warm and dry it’s time to enjoy the ocean facing balcony – with ocean views from each of the 35 rooms.

Spending time in the room is as salty-good as being on the beach. In the area along the blue line in the photo I could watch a pod of whales feeding sitting on my balcony. All this while breathing in the heady scent of salty ocean air and burgers on the grill down at the Pelican Brewing – you can charge your meal to your room!

In the Gallery below you see Pelican Brewing a few steps from the Inn. While their seafood is fresh and plentiful, their burger called my name. My room was the third from the right on the third floor. Coffee in the morning was just steps away at the Stimulus coffee shop attached to the Inn. While I usually walk directly to Stimulus for my first cup of coffee, on this visit the in-room coffee (by Maud-mmmm) and the rose colored skies above the rare calm of the sea beckoned me to my private balcony where I drank in the richness of the brew, the scene and the sea.

From your balcony or after a short walk down toward Cape Kiwanda Dune the winter waves put on a show – often cascading over the point of the dune. Beach garb is not bikinis but layers – fleece, puffies and rain gear. All the better to savor the seasons.

When I was at the Inn last week the waves were lapping gently as high tide tiptoed across the sand. Winter storms bring quite a different beat- pounding shore break exploding in blues and greens frothed with white spray sparkling in the sunlight

At the end of a brisk Fall day or a clear, cold Winter afternoon, the tradition in Pacific City includes the ritual of watching the sun set. Pausing to experience every season, every phase of the day and night – it’s all part of connecting with the salty soul that brings us back again and again.

Noble House Hotels & Resorts are fostering a strong connection within the Pacific City community. When you visit the Inn at Cape Kiwanda this Fall or Winter you will feel exactly what that means.

Some hikes to savor from the Inn

Wi-Ne-Ma: A Nestucca Inlet Hike

A Joy for the Senses – Hiking Cape Kiwanda Dune

Tiki Life – Easy and Breezy

The weather report rarely gets it right. That’s fine as long as you have a quiver of options that cross conditions as easily as switching a paddle for a wing. This winter we have been staying at a condo with a weather-report worthy view right from the living room window. From checking the wind on the water, the pace of sailboats in the distance or the rippling roll of dolphin on mirror calm, we predict the day’s weather ourselves. Except for torrential rain or lightning, we always have fun options on the water.

It’s tough to beat a paddle when the glassy calm water is so enticing you could stay out all day. My favorite times include the early morning paddles watching the dolphin feed and play. Other times, crossing a wide bay and coming upon a lonely little island with a lone tree and a sandy beach is the treasure. Discovering a cove sparkling with crystal clear water just a stone’s throw from touristy civilization is serenity at its best.

Then there are those days when you head out for a paddle and the wind is kicking up side chop and gusts that blast forward progress to a slow crawl? Those are the days that eventually inspired me to research the Starboard FreeWing AIR. After consulting with the team at Big Winds in Hood River, I gifted myself a fine trio of wings and opened up a challenging learning situation – and a ton of fun! Now, whether I end up with a paddle in my hand or a wing leashed to my wrist I am ready for good times on the water.

I started out with some instincts about how to move across the water with wind power from various experiences under sail – from big boats to playful little Hobie cats to windsurfing fun. Moving under wing-power is not a direct translation from a sail, but wind awareness does help. When I took my first lesson in Hood River, OR, I wasn’t totally inept.

Over time I have learned to toss more than one wing in the car. It’s brutal to underestimate the wind and head out knowing you’re over powered and in for a killer adventure. If the wind settles more than expected it’s always nice to be able to size up a level and get the speed and ride that’s adrenaline-laced enough. I have a LOT of skill development to go, but that’s half the fun of picking up a new sport.

I am looking my 75th birthday in the eye in a couple of months – maybe this time the gift should be a couple more lessons!