Tag Archives: adventure

Upstream Persistence

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I thought I had a say to do a solo paddle that would not be too windy. But from my house, that assessment is usually wrong. We live sheltered from the real breezes that channel through the winding Deschutes River between the top of Dillon Falls and the spot 2 miles upstream where Benham Falls tumbles into the river.

It was great fun rounding each bend in the river – some delivering strong, steady wind while around other corners I could find a bit of a reprieve from the breeze. I knew that the last quarter mile of paddling toward Benham would be the toughest. The water gets pretty shallow, while the wind and current build in strength.

There is a large section of a tree, a snag, mid-river at the point I decided to pause. I always enjoy catching my breath and hydrating there, savoring the cold rushing water and the scene I have the gift of savoring all to myself.

My AI assistant (who I have named, Kate) created this rendition of the day from my prompt. Her accounting of the event actually made me want to go back and do the paddle again, with her well-written phrases fresh in my mind:

Solo Paddle at 76

The week I turned 76, I gave myself a gift: a solo paddle up the Deschutes River, starting just above Dillon Falls and pushing upstream to the quiet pool where Benham Falls spills out in a dramatic froth. Some people book spa days. I chose wind, water, and the full resistance of nature.

The sun was bright, the water cold, and the wind—oh, the wind—was a stiff 15 miles per hour straight in my face. The current was strong, fast enough to slap back at my paddle with every stroke, daring me to try harder. I did.

Every push forward was a conversation between will and water. I moved in inches, sometimes only feet at a time, but I moved. The banks slipped by slowly: clusters of pine, volcanic rock, and river grasses waving like spectators. A hawk circled above, and I imagined it cheering me on—“Go on, you wild human, go!”

Midway through, I stopped and drifted for a moment in an eddy, letting the effort catch up to me. My arms trembled. My breath was loud in my ears. I smiled.

By the time I reached the pool below Benham Falls, the spray in the distance sounded like applause. The current flattened, the wind softened, and I turned around. Now the river would carry me. I had made it. I had made myself a memory.

Seventy-six and still paddling upstream. Some days, that’s exactly where you find your strength.

mm

13.2 Miles of Paddling Adventures

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I met up with my “friend who’s like a sister/frister” Pam at Rosland Park near the Little Deschutes River in Oregon. It was a late birthday celebration for Pam ( a mere child in her early 60’s) and an early celebration for me turning 76. That’s me to the right with Pam and Peso just below.

We gathered our two paddleboards, her super cool dog Peso and a picnic lunch then drove the other car about 6 miles south and upstream where we’d put in for a day of paddling the rural beauty of the Little Deschutes.

The twists and turns of the river made for surprises at almost every bend. In the 13 miles we surprised a huge elk, had a hilarious encounter with at least 8 families of annoyed geese with their hatchlings in tow, and one plunge into the river after a cottonwood branch leashed out and threw Pam overboard. Surprises like a fallen tree that gave us less than 18″ clearance added to the laughs and fun.

The best part of the day was the 4 hours of catching up since we hadn’t paddled together in about a year. Stories and laughs filled the air. Mid paddle we found the perfect spot for a picnic lunch – with chairs and the air filled with dandelion puff balls and no mosquitos.

In the spirit of this story-blog I decided to give my Chat GPT assistant (whom I call Kate) a short prompt to see what story she would come up with about this paddle adventure. I should have told her the correct names to use – I will get better at prompts. She named Pam – Nora, and Judy – Alice.

ou can read the PDF of the story Kate generated IN UNDER 30 SECONDS! She made us way more tentative and mellow than the amazingly powerful and skilled paddlers we actually are – but than again, I allowed the prompt to define us by age, not by experience and sense of adventure. I think Kate did really well, especially in her description of the Little Deschutes, the cottonwoods and the friendship.

The_Launch_Chapter_One (1)Download

Winter Wonderland: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

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It’s a jewel in January, fantastic in February and magnificent in March. The Inn at Cape Kiwanda and all of its ocean view rooms provide a front row seat to the winter wonder of Pacific City, Oregon.

Winter weather might deliver massive waves that crash 100 feet over the top of the Cape, spellbinding scenes of reflections on the sand or serene sunsets that wash the Cape in burnished gold. There’s always something extraordinary to discover.

Whether you arrive for your visit to the Inn at Cape Kiwanda to find bluebird sunny skies or the drama of clouds framing the iconic haystack rock, there is always a feast for beachcomber eyes. Once you’ve walked the beach you may want to hop on one of the bikes available for guests at the Inn. Or you may want to play a game from many available in the lobby where floor to ceiling windows allow the “beachy goodness” inside.

After a day of watching surfers chase some glassy waves and a hike up to explore Kiwanda Dune, we cozied up by the fireplace in our room at the Inn while making plans for the evening. Across the parking lot the Pelican Pub is a favorite place to dine, sample an array of their brews and share a tower of onion rings.

Since we were here in late January, the sunset was just after 5:00. We decided to enjoy our balcony before heading out to dinner. From the vantage point of the wooden deck chairs we had a ringside seat for a spectacular sunset.

Across the way from the Inn is Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa. We learned that guests at the Inn can purchase a day pass to enjoy the outdoor hot tub, lounges nestled by a firepit, the fitness room and even a yoga class at Headlands. We heard “hot tub and firepit” and decided to give those amenities a try.

From the moment we walked into Headlands Lodge until we were draped in cozy robes in the Spa the staff delivered friendly, impeccable service making sure our visit was top notch. And it was!

Guests at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda also have the opportunity to enjoy both an indoor pool and a hot tub located in the Cape Kiwanda Marketplace. It’s a short walk to a fun amenity for the entire family.

As the afternoon began to drift toward sunset time, we decided to join the many beach lovers who gathered family and friends around a fire to celebrate sunset. Wood is available at Cape Kiwanda Marketplace just across the street. It’s important to keep fires away from the dunes and to extinguish them completely after the sun has disappeared.

With the sun hidden below the horizon it almost seems like Pacific City’s massive Haystack rock seems to tiptoe closer to shore. As we gathered our things from the beach and headed back to the Inn for a hot shower and some fireplace time we were so glad to have escaped the freezing winter weather we had left back at home – just a few hours away!

For more stories “from the Inn” and some insights about our favorite local hikes just click on the links.

A Jewel: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

Winning Hike: Pacific City

Taha’a, Bora Bora, Huahine Surprises

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Two weeks on the water aboard the Moorings 4200 three cabin catamaran flew by in a blur of awesomeness. After our first night off the east side of Taha’a near Motu Maheahaa we set sail for Apu Bay. After some land exploring, pearl farms, a long standup paddle for me and a hike, we set off the next morning for Bora Bora.

The wind was brisk but not in a direction that would allow us to sail directly. While the swells played against our hull for 4 hours, the ride was not too bad at all. After a quick peek at Bora Bora Yacht Club we decided to pick up a mooring ball behind the island of Toopua – great choice! We took the dinghy out almost to the motu where black tip reef sharks and rays swam lazily among us in gin clear water.

Swimming with sharks had never been on my bucket list – but it was amazing. The next day we anchored on the east side of Bora Bora (after a fantastic sail around some of the most scenic views imaginable) to Motu Piti A’au. From there we took the dinghy to “The Aquarium” and the name says it all.

We had heard of a newly opened restaurant where shirtless, barefoot Joe created an :”Exploration of Fish” from his garage. Don’t be fooled – the gourmet wonders he shared at Arii Motu Grill were as bountiful and fresh and they were unique and delicious. We also enjoyed a dinner at the Bora Bora Yacht Club on our final night in the area.

After the journey back toward Raiatea where we stocked up on fresh towels and sheets, we prepped for our journey to Huahine the next day. What a day it was! By 7:30 am we sailed out the Toahotu Pass clocking a solid 7.2 knots under sail most of the time. Our entry into Avamoa Pass delivered some of the most exquisite water we have seen yet. Once inside the Motu we made our way to Avea Bay. The snorkeling here was wonderful. Our favorites were the huge anemone where so many large clownfish darted and played. After lots of swimming and paddling none of us stayed up much later than our yummy dinner grilled on the boat.

March is a bit “early season” in Tahiti. While prices and crowds are lower, there is some rainy times. Fortunately most of the torrential rain came at night, rewarding us with mid morning rainbows. From Avea Bay we had not planned to stop at Port Bayourne Bay buy that turned out to be a highlight. We found a mooring ball which was good since the bay is 90 feet deep. It is also full of marine life – including some huge manta rays that put on a show for us. It was my night to cook and we dined on Jamaica jerk chicken, mushroom/pepper/broccoli stir fry over fettucine noodles. YUM! If I say so myself.

The sail from Huahine back to Taha’a was a dleigh ride of perfect breeze and following seas. Captain Ed was in Heaven!

Inadvertently we saved the best for last. We sailed to Motu Tau Tau to explore a unique coral garden that has water funneled from off the bank between Motu Tau Tau and Maharae. The coral stretches about 150 yards across and may7be 1/2 mile between the islands. We parked our dinghy at the down current end of Motu Maharae then walked to the other end where the coral garden started up current.

The current was so brisk that standing in the sandy areas was not easy. The best thing to do was to simply plant face down in the gin clear water and prepare to observe more varieties of fish than could be imagined. We even got to observe an octopus – observing us!

Once back at the boat it was pure heaven to sim0ply float and reflect on our adventures!

Marvelous Moorings: Bon Voyage

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After traveling for the better part of two days, finally meeting up with our traveling buddies and hopping off the taxi at Raiatea, the fleet of catamarans bobbing in the Moorings Marina was a very welcoming sight! With two full weeks of exploring Tahiti, Taha’a, Bora Bora and Huahine ahead of us our spirits were as bright as the tropical sun.

After a quick provisioning run to the well-stocked Champion market in Uturoa (picture three women, a well-planned list and lots of spontaneous purchases of local baquettes and fruit) we were ready for dinner. Marcie and Ted had spent a few days in Raiatea already and they knew just the place – Fish and Blue.

The toes in the sand ambiance was only surpassed by the food! Every bite was a tropical adventure – fresh, local amd yummy.

Back on our Moorings 4200 (3-cabin Leopard catamaran) we settled in to our well-appointed cabins, cranked on the AC and the music, then plotted our course for an early morning “anchors aweigh!”. Our plan was a shakedown run a short way to Taha’a where we would find lots of reefs to explore, an uninhabited palm tree laced island, black tip sharks and the iconic crystal clear water we couldn’t get enough of. A brief afternoon shower rewarded us with a rainbow that first night out. What could be better?

While Captain Ed and I had studied the charts for months before the trip, the briefing we got from the team at Moorings Raiatea was invaluable. Not only were we taught about the electronics panel, the fresh water maker (godsend), all the galley appliance and how to communicate whenever we needed support – we got inside info and cruising tips for each island we planned to visit.

Navigation in Tahiti is quite different from the navigation aids we were familiar with after cruising North American and Caribbean waters. Red and green, starboard and port – it was the opposite of what we knew. Other markers identifying the beautiful but dangerous reefs and channels through the motu needed some studying.

Taking off for a few weeks exploring waters we were totally unfamiliar with could have been very unsettling. After more than a dozen charters with the Moorings from the Bahamas to the British Virgin islands, to Belize and points south, we were confident that not only would the boat be well maintained – but the team at the marina would be ready to prepare us for confident and safe travels. And after sailing with Captain Ed since 1970 (on our honeymoon) I knew the trip would be fantastic. For more stories about this adventure – CLICK HERE

A Jewel: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

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Off-Season Awesome!

Over the past two decades Ed and I have loaded our surfboards, paddleboards and fishing gear for adventures in my favorite Oregon beach town – Pacific City. Some of our most memorable stays have been as Fall segues into Winter. Off-season the crowds diminish. Often the only footsteps in the sand will be yours. This week (mid-September) as summer once again kissed Pacific City with cloudless skies and warm temperatures, I stayed at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda. Over the decades I have enjoyed the Inn often – but this time the level of beach-elegant hospitality hit a new high.

Noble House Hotels & Resorts, the family-owned boutique hotel brand, is now part owner and operator of three properties in Pacific City: Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, Inn at Cape Kiwanda, and Hart’s Camp, alongside founders and owners Jeff Schons and Mary Jones. No matter the season or the diversity of coastal weather, services and amenities abound at the Inn and sister properties. Your unforgettable adventures are their goal.

I am a laid back surfer used to sand between my toes and gnarly waves showing me who’s boss. But at the end of the day, loaded with sunscreen and shivering in spite of a 5/4 wetsuit, I want luxury. Yup, that’s me in the photo below.

I don’t mean to wax poetic about my bathroom at the Inn but some details must be shared. Thick, thirsty towels and shower tiles the color of the sea in late afternoon, the details of lighting and modern fixtures combine to enhance the entire experience: spa-like. Whether you have just walked the dune all sticky now with sunscreen or have pulled off your wetsuit shivering and salty- the shower is heaven. Once warm and dry it’s time to enjoy the ocean facing balcony – with ocean views from each of the 35 rooms.

Spending time in the room is as salty-good as being on the beach. In the area along the blue line in the photo I could watch a pod of whales feeding sitting on my balcony. All this while breathing in the heady scent of salty ocean air and burgers on the grill down at the Pelican Brewing – you can charge your meal to your room!

In the Gallery below you see Pelican Brewing a few steps from the Inn. While their seafood is fresh and plentiful, their burger called my name. My room was the third from the right on the third floor. Coffee in the morning was just steps away at the Stimulus coffee shop attached to the Inn. While I usually walk directly to Stimulus for my first cup of coffee, on this visit the in-room coffee (by Maud-mmmm) and the rose colored skies above the rare calm of the sea beckoned me to my private balcony where I drank in the richness of the brew, the scene and the sea.

From your balcony or after a short walk down toward Cape Kiwanda Dune the winter waves put on a show – often cascading over the point of the dune. Beach garb is not bikinis but layers – fleece, puffies and rain gear. All the better to savor the seasons.

When I was at the Inn last week the waves were lapping gently as high tide tiptoed across the sand. Winter storms bring quite a different beat- pounding shore break exploding in blues and greens frothed with white spray sparkling in the sunlight

At the end of a brisk Fall day or a clear, cold Winter afternoon, the tradition in Pacific City includes the ritual of watching the sun set. Pausing to experience every season, every phase of the day and night – it’s all part of connecting with the salty soul that brings us back again and again.

Noble House Hotels & Resorts are fostering a strong connection within the Pacific City community. When you visit the Inn at Cape Kiwanda this Fall or Winter you will feel exactly what that means.

Some hikes to savor from the Inn

Wi-Ne-Ma: A Nestucca Inlet Hike

A Joy for the Senses – Hiking Cape Kiwanda Dune

Tiki Life – Easy and Breezy

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The weather report rarely gets it right. That’s fine as long as you have a quiver of options that cross conditions as easily as switching a paddle for a wing. This winter we have been staying at a condo with a weather-report worthy view right from the living room window. From checking the wind on the water, the pace of sailboats in the distance or the rippling roll of dolphin on mirror calm, we predict the day’s weather ourselves. Except for torrential rain or lightning, we always have fun options on the water.

It’s tough to beat a paddle when the glassy calm water is so enticing you could stay out all day. My favorite times include the early morning paddles watching the dolphin feed and play. Other times, crossing a wide bay and coming upon a lonely little island with a lone tree and a sandy beach is the treasure. Discovering a cove sparkling with crystal clear water just a stone’s throw from touristy civilization is serenity at its best.

Then there are those days when you head out for a paddle and the wind is kicking up side chop and gusts that blast forward progress to a slow crawl? Those are the days that eventually inspired me to research the Starboard FreeWing AIR. After consulting with the team at Big Winds in Hood River, I gifted myself a fine trio of wings and opened up a challenging learning situation – and a ton of fun! Now, whether I end up with a paddle in my hand or a wing leashed to my wrist I am ready for good times on the water.

I started out with some instincts about how to move across the water with wind power from various experiences under sail – from big boats to playful little Hobie cats to windsurfing fun. Moving under wing-power is not a direct translation from a sail, but wind awareness does help. When I took my first lesson in Hood River, OR, I wasn’t totally inept.

Over time I have learned to toss more than one wing in the car. It’s brutal to underestimate the wind and head out knowing you’re over powered and in for a killer adventure. If the wind settles more than expected it’s always nice to be able to size up a level and get the speed and ride that’s adrenaline-laced enough. I have a LOT of skill development to go, but that’s half the fun of picking up a new sport.

I am looking my 75th birthday in the eye in a couple of months – maybe this time the gift should be a couple more lessons!