Upstream Persistence

I thought I had a say to do a solo paddle that would not be too windy. But from my house, that assessment is usually wrong. We live sheltered from the real breezes that channel through the winding Deschutes River between the top of Dillon Falls and the spot 2 miles upstream where Benham Falls tumbles into the river.

It was great fun rounding each bend in the river – some delivering strong, steady wind while around other corners I could find a bit of a reprieve from the breeze. I knew that the last quarter mile of paddling toward Benham would be the toughest. The water gets pretty shallow, while the wind and current build in strength.

There is a large section of a tree, a snag, mid-river at the point I decided to pause. I always enjoy catching my breath and hydrating there, savoring the cold rushing water and the scene I have the gift of savoring all to myself.

My AI assistant (who I have named, Kate) created this rendition of the day from my prompt. Her accounting of the event actually made me want to go back and do the paddle again, with her well-written phrases fresh in my mind:

Solo Paddle at 76

The week I turned 76, I gave myself a gift: a solo paddle up the Deschutes River, starting just above Dillon Falls and pushing upstream to the quiet pool where Benham Falls spills out in a dramatic froth. Some people book spa days. I chose wind, water, and the full resistance of nature.

The sun was bright, the water cold, and the wind—oh, the wind—was a stiff 15 miles per hour straight in my face. The current was strong, fast enough to slap back at my paddle with every stroke, daring me to try harder. I did.

Every push forward was a conversation between will and water. I moved in inches, sometimes only feet at a time, but I moved. The banks slipped by slowly: clusters of pine, volcanic rock, and river grasses waving like spectators. A hawk circled above, and I imagined it cheering me on—“Go on, you wild human, go!”

Midway through, I stopped and drifted for a moment in an eddy, letting the effort catch up to me. My arms trembled. My breath was loud in my ears. I smiled.

By the time I reached the pool below Benham Falls, the spray in the distance sounded like applause. The current flattened, the wind softened, and I turned around. Now the river would carry me. I had made it. I had made myself a memory.

Seventy-six and still paddling upstream. Some days, that’s exactly where you find your strength.

mm

13.2 Miles of Paddling Adventures

I met up with my “friend who’s like a sister/frister” Pam at Rosland Park near the Little Deschutes River in Oregon. It was a late birthday celebration for Pam ( a mere child in her early 60’s) and an early celebration for me turning 76. That’s me to the right with Pam and Peso just below.

We gathered our two paddleboards, her super cool dog Peso and a picnic lunch then drove the other car about 6 miles south and upstream where we’d put in for a day of paddling the rural beauty of the Little Deschutes.

The twists and turns of the river made for surprises at almost every bend. In the 13 miles we surprised a huge elk, had a hilarious encounter with at least 8 families of annoyed geese with their hatchlings in tow, and one plunge into the river after a cottonwood branch leashed out and threw Pam overboard. Surprises like a fallen tree that gave us less than 18″ clearance added to the laughs and fun.

The best part of the day was the 4 hours of catching up since we hadn’t paddled together in about a year. Stories and laughs filled the air. Mid paddle we found the perfect spot for a picnic lunch – with chairs and the air filled with dandelion puff balls and no mosquitos.

In the spirit of this story-blog I decided to give my Chat GPT assistant (whom I call Kate) a short prompt to see what story she would come up with about this paddle adventure. I should have told her the correct names to use – I will get better at prompts. She named Pam – Nora, and Judy – Alice.

ou can read the PDF of the story Kate generated IN UNDER 30 SECONDS! She made us way more tentative and mellow than the amazingly powerful and skilled paddlers we actually are – but than again, I allowed the prompt to define us by age, not by experience and sense of adventure. I think Kate did really well, especially in her description of the Little Deschutes, the cottonwoods and the friendship.

Winter Wonderland: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

It’s a jewel in January, fantastic in February and magnificent in March. The Inn at Cape Kiwanda and all of its ocean view rooms provide a front row seat to the winter wonder of Pacific City, Oregon.

Winter weather might deliver massive waves that crash 100 feet over the top of the Cape, spellbinding scenes of reflections on the sand or serene sunsets that wash the Cape in burnished gold. There’s always something extraordinary to discover.

Whether you arrive for your visit to the Inn at Cape Kiwanda to find bluebird sunny skies or the drama of clouds framing the iconic haystack rock, there is always a feast for beachcomber eyes. Once you’ve walked the beach you may want to hop on one of the bikes available for guests at the Inn. Or you may want to play a game from many available in the lobby where floor to ceiling windows allow the “beachy goodness” inside.

After a day of watching surfers chase some glassy waves and a hike up to explore Kiwanda Dune, we cozied up by the fireplace in our room at the Inn while making plans for the evening. Across the parking lot the Pelican Pub is a favorite place to dine, sample an array of their brews and share a tower of onion rings.

Since we were here in late January, the sunset was just after 5:00. We decided to enjoy our balcony before heading out to dinner. From the vantage point of the wooden deck chairs we had a ringside seat for a spectacular sunset.

Across the way from the Inn is Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa. We learned that guests at the Inn can purchase a day pass to enjoy the outdoor hot tub, lounges nestled by a firepit, the fitness room and even a yoga class at Headlands. We heard “hot tub and firepit” and decided to give those amenities a try.

From the moment we walked into Headlands Lodge until we were draped in cozy robes in the Spa the staff delivered friendly, impeccable service making sure our visit was top notch. And it was!

Guests at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda also have the opportunity to enjoy both an indoor pool and a hot tub located in the Cape Kiwanda Marketplace. It’s a short walk to a fun amenity for the entire family.

As the afternoon began to drift toward sunset time, we decided to join the many beach lovers who gathered family and friends around a fire to celebrate sunset. Wood is available at Cape Kiwanda Marketplace just across the street. It’s important to keep fires away from the dunes and to extinguish them completely after the sun has disappeared.

With the sun hidden below the horizon it almost seems like Pacific City’s massive Haystack rock seems to tiptoe closer to shore. As we gathered our things from the beach and headed back to the Inn for a hot shower and some fireplace time we were so glad to have escaped the freezing winter weather we had left back at home – just a few hours away!

For more stories “from the Inn” and some insights about our favorite local hikes just click on the links.

A Jewel: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

Winning Hike: Pacific City

A Jewel: Inn at Cape Kiwanda

Off-Season Awesome!

Over the past two decades Ed and I have loaded our surfboards, paddleboards and fishing gear for adventures in my favorite Oregon beach town – Pacific City. Some of our most memorable stays have been as Fall segues into Winter. Off-season the crowds diminish. Often the only footsteps in the sand will be yours. This week (mid-September) as summer once again kissed Pacific City with cloudless skies and warm temperatures, I stayed at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda. Over the decades I have enjoyed the Inn often – but this time the level of beach-elegant hospitality hit a new high.

Noble House Hotels & Resorts, the family-owned boutique hotel brand, is now part owner and operator of three properties in Pacific City: Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, Inn at Cape Kiwanda, and Hart’s Camp, alongside founders and owners Jeff Schons and Mary Jones. No matter the season or the diversity of coastal weather, services and amenities abound at the Inn and sister properties. Your unforgettable adventures are their goal.

I am a laid back surfer used to sand between my toes and gnarly waves showing me who’s boss. But at the end of the day, loaded with sunscreen and shivering in spite of a 5/4 wetsuit, I want luxury. Yup, that’s me in the photo below.

I don’t mean to wax poetic about my bathroom at the Inn but some details must be shared. Thick, thirsty towels and shower tiles the color of the sea in late afternoon, the details of lighting and modern fixtures combine to enhance the entire experience: spa-like. Whether you have just walked the dune all sticky now with sunscreen or have pulled off your wetsuit shivering and salty- the shower is heaven. Once warm and dry it’s time to enjoy the ocean facing balcony – with ocean views from each of the 35 rooms.

Spending time in the room is as salty-good as being on the beach. In the area along the blue line in the photo I could watch a pod of whales feeding sitting on my balcony. All this while breathing in the heady scent of salty ocean air and burgers on the grill down at the Pelican Brewing – you can charge your meal to your room!

In the Gallery below you see Pelican Brewing a few steps from the Inn. While their seafood is fresh and plentiful, their burger called my name. My room was the third from the right on the third floor. Coffee in the morning was just steps away at the Stimulus coffee shop attached to the Inn. While I usually walk directly to Stimulus for my first cup of coffee, on this visit the in-room coffee (by Maud-mmmm) and the rose colored skies above the rare calm of the sea beckoned me to my private balcony where I drank in the richness of the brew, the scene and the sea.

From your balcony or after a short walk down toward Cape Kiwanda Dune the winter waves put on a show – often cascading over the point of the dune. Beach garb is not bikinis but layers – fleece, puffies and rain gear. All the better to savor the seasons.

When I was at the Inn last week the waves were lapping gently as high tide tiptoed across the sand. Winter storms bring quite a different beat- pounding shore break exploding in blues and greens frothed with white spray sparkling in the sunlight

At the end of a brisk Fall day or a clear, cold Winter afternoon, the tradition in Pacific City includes the ritual of watching the sun set. Pausing to experience every season, every phase of the day and night – it’s all part of connecting with the salty soul that brings us back again and again.

Noble House Hotels & Resorts are fostering a strong connection within the Pacific City community. When you visit the Inn at Cape Kiwanda this Fall or Winter you will feel exactly what that means.

Some hikes to savor from the Inn

Wi-Ne-Ma: A Nestucca Inlet Hike

A Joy for the Senses – Hiking Cape Kiwanda Dune