Kiwanda Wonder: From the Inn

Posted on September 20, 2013 by Water Words

I spent 52 years of my life in South Florida where I equated a “beach day” with sunshine, temperatures above 70 degrees and a bathing suit with sunscreen slopped on generously. For the past dozen years the Oregon coast has introduced an entirely new and amazing meaning to “a day at the beach.” Nowhere is it more wonderful than at what has become “My Little Beach Town” like it has for so many others. We took a late September long weekend at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda recently and were greeted by weather that – at one time – would have encouraged me to be indoors. Not now!

Overcast skies only served to bring us all a bit closer – to our toasty beach fires. The wind was barely moving the colorful kites streaming along behind flocks of kids using barefoot running for wind-power – fueled by giggles and glee. A toddling towhead decked out in cozy fleece danced close to the waves adding a glisten to the low-tide sand while his watchful dad put finishing touches on the sand castle. Two sprightly seniors were sipping coffee mid afternoon as the tide began to switch from low to high. As the glassy waves built into more organized sets, they hopped up, donned their wet-suits and headed out for a standup surf session. I have to admit – the two seniors were me and Ed.

It was so much fun catching wave after wave, even though the rides were short that afternoon, the waves were glassy goodness over and over again. We came ashore and back to our room (and the toasty fireplace) in time to shower and dress for the 5:30-6:30 Friday night wine and cheese sampling party in the lobby of the Inn at Cape Kiwanda. This week’s end ritual begins with few people knowing each other – but soon conversation is lively. We took turns checking out the birds on the haystack with the telescope in the lobby. As we snacked on fruit and cheese we recalled the day’s fun – how many hiked up the dune and took photos of the awesome view. Those who hadn’t quickly made plans for the next day. As the hour wound down a few of us lingered by the fireplace while others made plans to meet for dinner at the Pelican Pub.

Saturday morning dawned a bit foggy with the haystack rock rising ghost-like out of a low bank of cloud. Again, it was no time to remain indoors and miss the wonder. As we walked across the parking lot of the Pelican Pub we had to look twice at what we were seeing. A lone guy was standing mid-way between the waves and the dunes doing – something? The air between him and the fog was all glimmering with light refracted somehow into rainbows in the shape of a sphere. Holy cow! He had a bucket of soap and a huge bubble blowing wand. He’d dip the wand into the bucket, hold it high and allow the light morning breeze to billow out bubbles nearly 4 feet in diameter. They would bounce and dance for a bit then disappear in a poof.

In a light drizzle that was mixed with peeks of sunshine in the blue windows between the clouds we took our coffee out to the beach for our walk down to watch the dory boats launch for their early morning catch. After a hike up the dune at Cape Kiwanda we began to make our way back to enjoy breakfast on our balcony. As we were strolling back, the muted hoof beats of a group of horses caught our attention, just in time to snap another photo of what makes Pacific City beach wonderful in every sort of weather. Don’t miss it!

The Inn at Cape Kiwanda

SUP Travel: Hood River, OR

Posted on August 19, 2013 by Water Words

Summertime in Hood River, Oregon is a miracle of wind, sunshine, fruit, flowers – and the playground that is the Columbia River Gorge. No matter what you choose to harness the wind or ride on the water you’ll have plenty of long days to enjoy the experiences. Come evening, you’ll want to rest your head someplace that has your comfort as the highest consideration. We have camped, stayed at a wide variety of local hotels and B&B choices, but our favorite has always been the Hood River Inn (Best Western Plus) managed for over 25 years by Chuck Hinman.

We enjoyed a similar moonrise the nights we stayed at the Hood River Inn (Best Wwestern Plus)

The Hood River Inn is located on the Columbia River shoreline, offering lodging with scenic river views, water access, and a private beach. We found that the Hood River Inn offers a generous combination of deluxe accommodations and amenities: (read more here). As standup paddlers, it just seems right that our first real awareness of the proximity of the Hood River Inn to the Columbia River, Hood River Waterfront Park, the Event Center and awesome Columbia Gorge views came during a standup paddle cruise from Mosier to Hood River. Our video story follows this article.

When we travel, one thing we value most is absolute cleanliness in our accommodations. Once that’s covered we start looking for the details in up to date decor, inviting hallways, top-quality bedding and impeccable bathrooms. You won’t be disappointed at the Hood River Inn. After a long day on the water few things hit the spot like a hot shower – in a luxurious and well-appointed bathroom. Finish that off with a lush towel that absorbs well and exudes freshness. These things really matter to even the most hard-core water athlete.

Then it’s time for food. Chef Mark DeResta’s choices of fresh and local ingredients are combined to provide a vast array of choices to suit almost any taste. Check the Riverside’s website for full details. Our experience is detailed here. If you’d like to check out the menu, here is the link.

After an active day, what we really liked was the walking path that meanders from behind the Hood River Inn, around the marina and over toward the river, the spit and the event center. Without getting back in the car we could view changing colors as the sun set beyond the Columbia Gorge and foothills on the Washington side of the river. We could watch evening flights of kiteboarders and waterbirds alike. When we tired of the outdoors we could head inside for a beer, cocktail or coffee and listen to local music in Cebu Lounge. While we could enjoy food from Riverside in Cebu, the weather was so good during our stay that we had to dine outdoors every chance we could.

Back in the room, Ed enjoyed watching golf and sailing on the huge flat-screen TV while I Facebooked and e-mailed a bit with the high speed wifi (free) in the room. Once it was time for sleep, comfort was waiting for us. Top quality bedding, plenty of pillows and a remote that let us alter air-conditioning without running to the unit.

The best surprise was yet to come. We knew that breakfast was included with the room so in the morning we headed down for coffee expecting “the usual.” Imagine our surprise when wait staff as friendly and attentive as we had at dinner the night before greeted us with menus and offered us a wide variety of full breakfasts – at no cost. The first nine items on the menu were the options we had. Everything was served hot and promptly. The grain toast was a treat. We tried four different items during our stay and enjoyed them all.

Fresh flowers, attentive and knowledgeable staff all complement the excellent, fresh food at Riverside. The view – see for yourself!

Plan ahead and make reservations so you don’t miss the Hood River Inn experience when you’re in Hood River enjoying SUP fun.

Sometimes, words alone are not enough to share an excellent experience. The following video can complete the story of the Hood River Inn in Hood River, OR

SUP Travel Jewel: Hood River Inn, OR

Posted on August 18, 2013 by Water Words

We enjoyed a similar moon rise the nights we stayed at the Hood River Inn (Best Western Plus)

Athletes know the importance of the pre-race evening meal and carb loading. Every year hundreds upon hundreds of water athletes, including standup paddlers, flock to Hood River, Oregon for famous down-wind events from Viento State Park to the community built Waterfront Park. Others enjoy clinics, fun paddles and adventures requiring skill and endurance. These thousands of athletes need that pre-event meal. I have often used pizza or pasta for carb loading, and often that pizza and pasta were excellent. But I have never – not ever – had a pre-race carb loading meal like the one I had Friday night at the Hood River Inn (a Best Western Plus property managed for over a quarter century by Chuck Hinman). (Read more here)

We wandered in to the hotel’s restaurant, Rverside, just as the sun was turning the dramatic slopes on the Washington side of the Columbia River a burnished gold. Of course, we chose to sit outside on the well-protected deck peppered with blossoming baskets of brilliant flowers. Okay, back to the important part of this story – the pasta meal. With an 8-mile downwinder scheduled for the next morning (with not enough wind to make it a glide in the park) we wanted fuel!

Even the toughest of water athlete deserves to be spoiled when it comes to accommodations and great dining

With smiles we came to expect from the wait staff and hosts, we were lead to our table. We sat down with a ticket in hand, provided at check-in, that gave us 50% off the second dinner entree. (Are you kidding? The prices were so value-wonderful to begin with). The menu was a dinner party in words. After drooling over everything, we went for pasta dishes:

I selected the Sausage and Fregula, which consisted of Olympic Provisions Parsley and Percorino sausage over toasted Fregula pasta, Calabran chiles, broccolini , spinach and Parmesan. It was a delight from the first mouthful until I cleaned the plate with a bit of the warm homemade bread. Toasted Fregula is taste and texture at its best.

Ed decided on the Vongole. He was delivered a bowl full of more than a dozen large Manila clams in garlic sauce over fresh linguine. The clams were a never-ending parade of freshness. Ed enjoyed dipping those beautiful mussels from their shells. Now, THAT is carb loading at its best. Oh, I forgot the best part.

Just before our amazing pasta dishes were delivered, the attentive wait team brought us a plate with three types of fresh bread, a serving of gourmet olives and delightful olive oil and vinegar for dipping. I usually eat very little bread. There is no way I could pass up a sampling of each fresh baked variety. You will want to know more about Chef Mark DeResta. He has a blog with a couple of good recipes. He’s a busy man, so the blog may not be updated as often as he likes, but it generally conveys his cooking philosophy.

Riverside uses fresh, local ingredients

You might head to Hood River, Oregon for a gnarly sports week or weekend. Even if you don’t usually focus on fine dining at the most value-centric venue in town you will want to plan ahead and book your stay at the Hood River Inn – your expectation will be met and exceeded! That certainly happened for us.

Check out the other stories and video below

SUP: 53 Degrees in the Summer

Posted on August 5, 2013 by Water Words

This KIALOA Paddles ad with Karen Wrenn inspired my that 56 degree morning in July

Flip through any of the many (thank goodness) SUP, paddling and surfing magazines and you’ll be dazzled by photos of surf, sun, bikinis, waves and warm water. One ad catches me every time because it’s the polar (sometimes literally) opposite. It’s KIALOA Paddle’s ad showing Karen Wrenn psyching herself up for a training paddle in cold, wet, blustery weather that is so common in the Pacific Northwest. Do you know that kind of weather?

In preparation for the Naish Gorge Paddle Challenge in a few short weeks, my plan is to add to my weekly mileage. Between work and other obligations, early morning is the best time to grab the hours needed to bag 5-8 miles up and down current in the Deschutes River. Ahhh, summer. 85-95 degree days have warmed both water and air making paddling a pure joy. Except for last Wednesday.

I was fooled by the blue sky and sunshine as I loaded my board. For some reason a northerly wind had funneled in along with lower temperatures. I got to the river still warm and cozy in my car. The first alarm bell rang when i saw the flags rippling straight out as the wind blew in the face in the UPSTREAM direction. That is never good. I stepped out of the car to unload my board and stepped into – COLD! Seriously?

Getting tuned up and ready for my first Gorge Paddle Challenge course race – inspired by KIALOA ‘Eleles Karen Wrenn and Brit Oliphant

I had neglected to do a temperature check back at the house. What was it? I turned on my car only to discover the outside temperature reading was 53! How did I miss that? Now, it’s true that in the winter, a sunny 53 degree day no matter what the wind chill is will seem like a “warm” day. In the winter we are prepared for chill – booties, fleece and the right mind-set.

WE bundle up for cold paddles in the winter!

On the late July day, back in the car I sat huddled. I wanted warm, tropical breezy warm! It was time to channel my “inner Karen Wrenn” – please! I managed to talk myself into getting onto the river and completing the planned distance.

Weirdly, after the first mile (brrrrr) I got sweaty, steady and in synch with wind, water, paddle technique and the beautiful morning.

Today, a mere 5 days after that challenging mental discipline of chilly last week I set off to 6 am yoga (wonderful) and went straight to the river for another 5 mile training paddle.

It was 55 today, wind brisk in the face up current again. I hesitated, but just for a moment. I had the image of last week’s paddle set in mind. It wasn’t raining, it wasn’t snowing and the river was almost empty. If we want to have the best experience at the many SUP events available in almost every home town we need to prepare. Sometimes we need not to over-think how it’s gonna be and just let our training session BE. Again today, it was delicious!

Sometimes WIND IS YOUR FRIEND – read more here

SUP: A Simple Paddle

Posted on July 31, 2013 by Water Words

When asked, ‘What did you do today,” most people might reply, “I went for a really nice paddle.”

End of story, and not bad.

This is not the way our friend Steve will reply. Steve, and his wife, Laurie, not only seem to enjoy 23.5 hours of each 24 hour day, but they do it with incredible gusto.

Tongue in cheek, a little, Steve describes an average day at their home in Olympia, WA like this:

We awoke in the luxurious Chateau Staurie (Steve and Laurie’s home) overlooking the calm quiet waters of the bay covered in the usual overnight blanket of low clouds. Views of the Olympics across the water will have to wait a few hours until the clouds burn clear. After a scrumptious breakfast including fresh local raspberries and blueberries from the farmers’ market and a few household chores like feeding the birds and watering the beautiful flowers on the deck over the sound, we gather our paddles and head down the steep path through the firs to the water.

At the bottom it is high tide so it is only a short walk with our SUP`s to the cool clear water of Totten Inlet. Totten means “calm” and today it lives up to its name. Glassy AM waters reflect the sky now mottled with breaking morning clouds and totally blue sky. Below the glassy surface swim big and small clear moon jellies and a few of the large red Lions Mane jellies (the largest species of Jelly Fish) with their 12+ long strands of stingers. In the distance Olympic peaks are showing through the now clearing skies. In a bit under 20 minutes we have crossed the 3/4 mile inlet and now paddle north along the shore to the mouth of Little Skookum Inlet.

Today will be a special day. We will get to visit Little Skookum Inlet. It is rarely visited (the closest public launch is 4-5 miles away) and paddling in is tide dependent. Today is perfect. The high tide of 12 feet when we get there will cover the shallow shoals exposed at lower tides. The current generated when 12 feet of water exits the bathtub of the beautiful narrow winding section of the inlet in just 6 hours as the tide ebbs will treat us to a downtider when we leave.

Skookum shellfish

On the opposite shore we see the only power boat we will see all day. It’s an oyster harvesting workboat and the workers bringing in Totten’s bountiful shellfish harvest for Taylor Shellfish Company. We will see few people today. The workers, a man mowing his lawn, a couple on the deck of their attractive shore side home and a pretty young woman in a bikini sunbathing on her deck who gets up as we go by (had to throw something special in there to entice the guys ).

As we wind our way through the narrow fir and cedar lined Little Skookum we are treated to the loud trill and loping flight pattern of several Kingfishers, a small gaggle of geese flying over and landing on the shore, the stately beauty of a bald eagle which flies over and lands in a large Douglas Fir sending out its distinctive call, many ducks and the usual gulls. Cormorants hold vigil on the poles set up for commercial boats, occasionally starting their flight by the dive splash and fly technique that is uniquely theirs. As we reach the end of the narrow section and the big shallow bay at the end of the inlet now covered wit 9 feet of water, but soon to be an empty mud pit.

The ebb current is growing strong enough that we can feel it slowing our progress–time to turn back and let it help us paddle. Unfortunately the clear skies brought a NNE wind which funnels in to Skookum inlet as the water funnels out. We don’t get a full out sleigh-ride,, but are only slowed a little until Skookum opens up before dumping in to Totten Inlet.

Mount Rainier watching over Totten Inlet

Here views of the giant Mt. Rainier in the distance reward our extra effort. After we turn in to Totten Inlet and head south to our beach, the wind is no longer an obstacle. At first it hits us on the quarter before pushing us the last mile. 3+ hours after starting we return to our beach in the warm sun. It feels warmer than the mid 70`s that it is on our protected beach covered in a depp layer of warmth soaking gravel. We rinse and store or boards, climb back up the trail to the house and a well deserved and yummy Linner. That’s our lunch/dinner which includes freshly picked salad from the garden on the deck at Chateau Staurie.

SUP: Perfect Beach Town

Posted on July 12, 2013 by Water Words

Inn at Cape Kiwanda is nestled between the light colored dune and the darker hill to the right – all ocean view rooms

What’s a perfect beach for SUP paddling and surfing? Sandy bottom, glassy waves, no crowds, clear water warm enough for no wetsuit – does that work for you? Well, except for the warm water and no wetsuit, Pacific City, Oregon is pretty close to ideal. The swells can be predicted and the mix of surfing waves goes the gamut. The ambiance in a beach town can add a lot to our SUP surfing and paddling experience.

I am staying at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda this trip and finding it to be an incredible spot for a super surf trip experience. In previous trips I have stayed at a nearby campground, in a camping cottage or in a rental home set back from the ocean. The heart of Pacific City’s beach scene is the triumvirate of the Cape Kiwanda Dune, the Pelican Pub and the iconic Haystack rock about a mile off shore.

This “haystack” stands 327 feet (100 m) above the sea and is the world’s fourth largest sea stack or off-shore monolith in the world. The Inn at Cape Kiwanda is situated right in the middle of these three with an ocean view from every room.

While that is a nice amenity, its value to us as SUP surfers on the Oregon coast is enormous. That early morning surf check in case the waves are right for a “dawn patrol” is usually a chilly trek from where you spent the night to the parking lot next to Pelican Pub. There we usually huddle in ski jackets holding our morning coffee close and tight. This morning I simply rolled over, still in the cozy bed, and check ed out the sets coming in at pre low tide. Not yet ready to surf, I made some coffee and went out on the deck.

From there I could view the far western edge of Cape Kiwanda Dune, where the sets announce their arrival with a wash over the jutting rocks. I took a long beach walk and enjoyed the art – created by clouds, water and sand.

By noon as I had a light lunch back on the deck at the Inn, I started to notice larger arcs of whitewater wrapping around the end of the dune. These sets came in consistently for bout 20 minutes. i timed the intervals between sets and decided, with incoming tide and lighter than expected winds, it was a great time to don the wetsuit and head out. An hour later I was chilly but had my fill of waist to chest high rides cutting right and left on fairly glassy faces.

Now came a real treat. I loaded my board onto my car and drove over to the Inn at Cape Kiwanda. Just outside of the lobby is a WARM WATER shower. I doused the board and myself – it felt wonderful. After drying a bit it was back to the room for a rest and a book. But as I read, I could keep an eye on the incoming tide and the dory boats coming in – right up on the sand.

I must have dozed off – about 4:00 the swell seemed to build a bit. The expected afternoon winds didn’t materialize and I was right there, front and center to observe the sea. Back into my wetsuit and an afternoon session I might have missed if i hadn’t been right there – better than any webcam!

Elder SUP

Connecting Across Generations and Oceans

Category Archives: Pacific Northwest