A Deeper Shade of Blue

Posted on March 29, 2013 by Water Words

In theaters across the country on March 28th legions of surfers, ocean-loving souls and fans of legendary Jack McCoy gathered for a one-night only showing of A DEEPER SHADE OF BLUE. Many familiar faces (and some very well-known) crowded together ready for a great show – and that’s exactly what was delivered. Careful research and 5 years of story development with countless hours of editing film and music was evident in this excellent finished product. No one can “talk story” about the soul of surfing better than the legends themselves.

Jack McCoy’s DEEPER SHADE OF BLUE delivered way beyond expectation!

It was easy to become so fully immersed in the video images – the color, the energy and the waves – that some of the dialog slipped past my conscious hearing. The soundtrack – want it! Here is one example of the music by Paul McCartney integrated perfectly with views most of us will never experience.

Danger in all shapes and forms at Ships Stern with Marty Paradisis

In an almost polar-opposite mood, an “Are you kidding me? Are they really riding that” segment showcased Marty Paradisis riding an insane monster of a wave with weird shapes and breaks found in the below freezing waters south of Tasmania. I was startled out of a mellow sense of soul and surfing and aloha by the juxtaposition of that gnarly – seemingly crazy – choice of wave. The audience gasped after the endless bone-crushing wipeouts delivered by that wave. Where was the soul connection we’d just shared with so many legends?

Earlier in the film, our local audience particularly enjoyed the segment about Pipeline narrated by the “Pipeline Master,” Gerry Lopez. As the film moved past that narrative with story after story about Lopez’s ability to surf Pipe, a wave at the time was deemed “unsurfable” by the generation that came before him, some familiar connections emerged. Audiences heard how Lopez has studied yoga for over 40 years and, in his own words, “finding peace in your mind through yoga and true focus through surfing. “There are so many different factors coming together that you have to be completely focused to catch the right wave at the right time,” Lopez shared.

Banzai Pipeline, 1979. Photo: Jeff Divine

The right wave at the right time: Now that is a powerful statement and could be the metaphor I needed to make sense of the calming spirit of aloha vs what seemed like a crazed death-wish in southern Tasmania. Each of us has a right wave at the right time – if we are open enough to see it, focus and connect with the soul of what we’re after. Perhaps the soul of Marty Paradisis has no choice but to ride the wave that is his right wave at the right time.

The final scenes of the film followed the rhythmic and very long small-wave Waikiki ride of a 5-year-old boy. Connecting across generation and across oceans the story of surfing lives forward – with soul and aloha when at its best. We all have the choice to ride (and live) with the full meaning of “aloha” through our choices on and off the water. (The scene in which a grandmother shared her breath, he “ha” with her grandchild was one of the most impressive in the film for me). I didn’t always get that.

Packed with 44 stories and wisdom, wit and insights – grab a copy or re-read yours!

Here in Bend, Oregon we have the opportunity to share some water time and some yoga time with the humble, cool and focused legend, Gerry Lopez himself. Occasionally he’ll lead a class locally in addition to many other destinations worldwide. Those 60-90 minutes really inspire my “newbie” dedication to following a yoga practice – particularly around breathing. In a recent interview with SurferMag online, Gerry explains, “The learning curve is so steep in surfing that if you’re not fully tuned in to your surroundings and completely focused on what’s happening around you in the lineup, you’re going to fail. Learning how to breathe properly is really important. It’ll calm you down when you’re stressed, relax your body, and tighten your focus. These are all things you want to be doing when you’re surfing. ”

Surfing and life, surfing for life – breathe. Thanks for an amazing film, Jack McCoy!

SUP: The Wave and You

Posted on March 27, 2013 by Water Words

Have you read Susan Casey’s book, The Wave? (Seriously awesome video based on the book)

Casey, 44, editor of O magazine, traveled the world experiencing waves close up and personal. Casey, who wrote The Devil’s Teeth, a 2005 best seller about white sharks, didn’t want to write a book just about surfing. She was driven to write about waves, some almost mythical in stature. To do this, Casey needed a guide to “open up his world to me” and provide a “glimpse of the ocean with its gloves off.” One of her guides to waves, like Jaws on the North shore of Maui, was the waterman, Laird Hamilton. Her encounters with the famous Jaws were described so vividly, it felt as though I was there as I read. Even accompanied by big wave surfer, Laird Hamilton, (another cool video) would I charge the face of Jaws in a jet ski or dive below and witness the sea-floor configuration that causes that incredible wave? I certainly hope so!

Auhtor of THE WAVE, Susan Casey, with her guide to Jaws (Maui), Laird Hamilton.

Author of THE WAVE, Susan Casey, with her guide to Jaws (Maui), Laird Hamilton.

Casey told Hamilton about a freak North Sea storm in 2000 that battered and nearly sank a research ship — the opening scene in her book.

“He wished he had been there,” she recalls.

Hamilton explained, “What’s hell for some is heaven for others. A storm like that can stir up “the ultimate playground” for big-wave surfers.

Have you ever been schooled by a wave just a degree or two (or 3) above your skill level? One that held you down, knocked the tar out of you and was fodder for stories for weeks after? For some, that wave is calf high, for others a triple overhead at Pipeline. I found my limit one cold October morning doing dawn patrol with my husband, Ed, and our buddy Randall.

Pipeline – December 2011

After a 40 year hiatus from surfing it was the third fall I’d been SUP surfing, 2011. We’d only planned to sit on the beach at Pacific City (Oregon) with a coffee. Out in the light fog about 1/2 mile offshore a set of big fat and beautiful glassy waves wrapped around the point at Cape Kiwanda and solidly marched through the deep water. Rather than crashing or closing out, they simply diminished before re-building on the more shallow reef onshore. A setup that rare had to be experienced. Wetsuits donned we paddled out.

Holy cow – heart in throat time…what was lurking under the glassy beds of seaweed out by the rock? Would I have the nerve to really go for a wave that seemed to swallow up Ed and Randall as they disappeared behind the overhead walls they took? The third swell of a set loomed up. I was bit further in than the “safe” zone – having sort of tried for the first wave. That made the wall and takeoff a bit more steep – but something made me dig for it an GO!

My skills are very limited and bottom turns – not so much. Yet something clicked on that wave, I dug my KIALOA paddle hard into the face and powered a nice right that lofted me up the face at a speed that I’d never felt before. The board vibrated under my feet with a shattering sound that serenaded with whistling wind, and filled my ears. “Wooooohooooooo!” Yeah! There was nothing but an amazing rush. In a few seconds when time stood still that was a ride to remember. Then the shoulder flattened out in a deep water channel close to shore and I cruised over the top and paddled back out. I caught two more waves before reaching the edge of my “courage”envelope. I went in way before anyone else – but it was enough.

Brit Oliphant using her skills to backdoor a section on her backhand, Sweet use of her KIALOA GL ULtralight HULU paddle

Totally amazing and I haven’t ridden anything like that since. Yet, it is cool to have some experience so that when I see someone tackling a nice sized waveI I can have a small sense of what’s so incredible. The photo to the left shows Brit Oliphant, a Surftech team rider, ready to dig her KIALOA Hulu GL Ultralight paddle to backdoor a section on her backhand.

Imagine the sounds and feel of the speed and wave power as Brit maneuvers across that overhead face. Surfers everywhere and at every ability level share a common set of awe and experience for the waves they’ve ridden and waves they been thrashed by. The most important thing about the ocean is that we explore it. It’s our source and where we’ve evolved from — it’s spectacularly beautiful, and it’s really, really powerful. Whether we ride the big ones or live extreme moments vicariously, we share a common energy.

Respect your skill and respect your ocean – love your moments and your abilities on your waves. A very wise surfer, one whose spirit of aloha graces all he does, is Gerry Lopez. In his book, SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT, he shares five rules. The fifth and final Lopez rule, “The best surfer in the water is the guy having the most fun.” Like Gerry, we can all try to remember that one.

A great shot of Gerry Lopez originally posted in 1859 – Oregon’s Magazine.

Okay, grab your paddle and your board – have some fun and dream of waves! Then share your stories with us – via e-mail or on Facebook.

SUP Muse: Brit Oliphant

Posted on March 26, 2013 by Water Words

What’s the mental image your mind imagines when you hear about a teen spending a year on the beautiful rainbow island of Maui? Lots of fun, surfing, beach days and frolic? You bet! But if you think that’s all the possibilities you have not met one of the most amazing young waterwomen – Brit Oliphant. Brit knows how to play but she is also a force to be reckoned with when it comes to focus, dedication, training and making dreams happen.

Don’t let this laid back image confuse you – Brit’s got focus and a passion for excellence.

Just out of high school (a year early by doing her junior and senior year simultaneously), Brit has a love of life and maturity that’s rare at any age. While disciplined training has provided the fitness background needed to compete at the highest levels in the sports of standup surfing and paddling, an absolute love of oceans, rivers and people adds a special something else. So during the past 6 months as Brit lives life her way in Maui, she’s brought her SUP paddling and surfing skills to a new level.

Generating confidence and having a blast – Go Brit!

A winter of “whoa that’s big” surf, balance training on the slackline, running, running and more running and miles of windy to wonderful standup paddling has honed some serious talent to something more. Still full of fun and grins, Brit powered into the 2013 Surftech Shootout @ The Lane. She had an impressive performance, taking second ahead of Morgan Hoesterey. Surftech team rider, Candice Appleby held the top spot on the podium. Gracious and grinning, exuding the essence of waterwomen, it was very cool to see Brit and Candice celebrating the results of much hard work and dedication.

Four amazing waterwomen at the March 2013 Surftech Shootout

For about a minute and a half I considered getting a slackline to practice my own balance after hearing Brit talk about how much fun she has with that part of her training. Then it occurred to me that the 47 years’ difference in our age – maybe there was something more valuable about balance to learn from my buddy, Brit.

Keeping things in perspective and following the path that’s a balance of fitness, competition, travel, family and fun is Brit’s forte. Appreciation, an eye for opportunity and a willingness to move beyond the “comfort envelope” and work hard is a solid message for any of us.

So, why did I choose to profile Brit Oliphant as one of my favorite SUP Muses (along with Karen Wrenn and Suzie Cooney)? A “muse” is a catalyst for both change and a vision forward toward becoming our own best selves. Authentic and consistent, that’s pretty much how Brit lives her life and shares her aloha.

Who is YOUR SUP Muse? We’d love to hear from you via e-mail or simply connect with us on Facebook.

Take a look at the full event video – super fun for enjoying the event while planning to be there to watch next year.

*****

2013 Surftech Shootout: Surf & Sand Duel SUP Race Results

Elite Race Women
1st: Candice Appleby
2nd: Brit Oliphant
3rd: Morgan Hoesterey

Elite Race Men
1st: Slater Trout
2nd: Chuck Glynn
3rd: Matt Becker
4th: Anthony Vela
5th: Chance Fielder

SUP Senses: Listening

Posted on March 20, 2013 by Water Words

Taking a spin around the perimeter of a glassy lake at sunset, traveling upstream in a class I whitewater stretch or gliding shore-ward on a gently breaking wave or sense are alive. We experience sights, smells, the feel of water on our bare feet and the sound of water. We hear the swoosh of a glassy glide and the slap slap slap of small ripples playing off the hull.

Sometimes when I am training for a steady pace over a longer time or distance, I set the “metronome” to the sound of the slap-slap-slap of water on the board. 1-2-3 and then 1-2-3, switch sides and, 1-2-3 then 1-2-3 in a steady pace. It gets easier to maintain a pace with a steady beat going in my head.

Then comes a real eye-opener. I had a GoPro facing forward on the bow and then facing back at me during a recent glassy paddle as dusk approached last week. (video here) My 1-2-3 was way more slow in pace than I had felt while actually executing the pace. I needed to add some intervals – and soon! With just 51 days until the first downwind event of the season I want to be totally confident and ready to go my race and my skill level- but do it well.

Last Sunday I had the chance to paddle a sweet, but frosty 42 degree, 6-miler through two loops in the Deschutes River as it winds through Bend, OR. I went with a local SUP surfer and racer, Randall Barna. Randall watched my paddle stroke and tweaked my reach and return a bit. We discussed how much Karen Wrenn’s suggestion to keep my knees and hips facing forward even as the upper torso/ribs twist. Randall had a cool way of creating the image I needed to drive forward and be more efficient with my technique.

I tend to fall backward when tossed off balance, so Randall explained the reasons to stay fully balanced on all 4 corners of both feet. Rather than driving the board hard and down – then forward, the better image is “create a buoyant feel as you press the board forward with the sense of floating it lightly but firmly.” Thinking about these tweaks allowed miles to float by easily.

I still need to build a better fitness base for the upcoming paddle season. According to Suzie Cooney, CPT (of Suzie Trains Maui, a Naish team rider), “Music added to your own SUP training session can make a huge difference in you enjoying your training session and can actually help you increase your mileage and decrease your time. Get to know your heart and lung capacity and stress yourself accordingly. Make sure you are in good physical health and have proper clearance from your physician.” Great advice. I read her excellent article on training with a balanced tempo playlist, donned my heart rate monitor and had some great paddles so far this week. You can do the same. Take the few short minutes needed to explore Suzie’s online training article – then go enjoy standup paddling with all your senses!

It Takes a Village

Posted on March 11, 2013 by Water Words

As March delivers more daylight and some warmer weather, we’re back on the water more often these days. Having survived this much of ski season with knees in pretty good shape, it was a surprise when I managed to make them sore when paddling. As a precaution, since a few meniscus surgeries indicate I have very little cushion and some arthritis in the old knees, I had some injectable medication called hyaluronan delivered. It is a once a week procedure over 3 weeks (ouch!)

Using some GoPro footage (which should be done again from the back-of-the-paddler view) I was able to share my technique with some experts kind enough to provide suggestions. I tired out the very good advice from Karen Wrenn, Naish team rider, over the weekend. With knee braces on, a more narrow stance and full attention on keeping my torso rotation a bit higher toward the upper ribs I had a great time! The entire process of awareness and concentration almost made me miss the awesome sun on water and mild breezes, but not quite.

Keeping my knees tracking more forward really seemed to make a difference in my ability to “drive power through the board” for consistent acceleration. Karen mentioned that I might expect more after exercise soreness in the upper ribs area when i was getting the rotation closer to what might be ideal. I can vouch for that – in a good way.

Bridget Fitzpatrick Evans joyfully shares yoga with us bright and early in the morning.

Even greater reinforcement of how a body could be gently nudged toward a new (and hopefully, better) technique came with my 6 am yoga class at Groove Yoga Bend this morning. We were going through our moving-breathing-meditation led by Bridget Evans and we were deep into Warrior Two when I noticed a light “coaching” toward moving hips to the side as arms pointed forward and back. With another barely noticeable touch, Bridget coaxed my thigh to bend just a bit more toward parallel with the ground – and “LIGHT BULB!”

It might have been 1/16th of an inch more of a torso rotation, but I caught a twinge of that upper rib exertion from the paddling and my hips moved a bit more – and there was the reminder. If patience and awareness team up, even a tough old body can learn to move in new (and more effective) ways. A little shaky and really sweaty insight.

Later as we moved into single pigeon, I babied my left knee and did a variation on my back. My cooler and healthier right knee found its way into the pose a bit easier. Breathing in and then breathing out and deepening the pose I was feeling really good about how it was all settling in. Maybe Bridget noticed some tense areas that were holding me back – who knows. Whatever, she appeared at just the right time and managed to relax some large back muscles, some teeny neck muscles and gently coax a bit more deepening of the stretch. Wow! it was such an easy transition, and reinforced hope.

Consistent practice and listening to one’s own body – partnered with professional advice – can make training an adventure and a journey. I guess the take away is paying attention – what do you think? We welcome your comments, e-mail and insights.

Sports Imaging: Stehlik Glides

Posted on March 8, 2013 by Water Words

About 18 months ago we visited Oahu and were fortunate to discover Blue Planet, an SUP center just a few miles from Waikiki. Blue Planet is owned by Robert Stehlik, a talented paddler consistently sharing his time and expertise to all levels – from rank beginner to the downwind experts. We had a great time at one of the many free clinics he offers and loved trying out race boards for the first time in 2011.

Robert Stehlik of Blue Planet has a wealth of open ocean crossings as the foundation for teaching others.

Robert Stehlik combined his talent with a GoPro video and decided to paddle the Hawaii Kai downwind run on Oahu while narrating it. With a summer full of all sorts of downwind runs (with the Wickiup in Central Oregon coming up soon) we decided to take some time to really study Robert’s videos. It is really insightful to hear the coaching tips and tricks as he is actually doing them.

Wide open downwind spaces – heading toward Waikiki

While the tips on paddle cadence were definitely valuable, the tips on reading waves and increasing the opportunities to ride glides both left and right really hit home.

I absolutely agree with Robert when he says, “Downwind runs are exciting and fun. In the surf, you are often waiting for a set or your turn to catch the next wave. On a downwinder, there are no crowds, you have long windswells that stretch across the whole ocean to play with, you are always on the move, going from one glide to the next, surfing the bumps.

Plan ahead, know the waters, route and weather before heading out on a downwinder.

There is no doubt that doing any length downwinder requires preparation, planning, a partner and the appropriate safety gear. The pre-downwinder prep including balance training, awareness and a depth of open water experience can make all the difference in the experience.
Robert advises, “It can also be dangerous to head out into the open ocean unprepared, so make sure you know what you are getting yourself into.
I enjoy sharing what I have learned and have been offering coaching to paddlers that want to experience the joy of downwind paddling. For more information on SUP lessons and coaching offered by Blue Planet, please visit the website for more information.

SUP Muse: Suzie Cooney

Posted on March 7, 2013 by Water Words

The grin and enthusiasm are a constant! Suzie Cooney, CPT, lives her expertise!

It was almost a year ago that Ed and I had the chance to meet a virtual whirlwind of expertise and energy, Suzie Cooney (CPT) of Suzie Trains Maui. We tentatively tested the waters of the Olukai Ho’olaule’a by doing the “fun race” of three short miles and emerged from the water wanting only MORE! We knew that there was no way our “almost-ready-for-Medicare” bodies were trained for the wind and waves of the full run from Maliko Gulch, so we stayed in touch with Suzie.

Great plan! You too can enjoy her training no matter where you live via a SKYPE session or you can enhance your Maui vacation paddling by booking a local session. Be sure to plan well in advance. Suzie works hard sharing her training and expertise from large group workshops, articles and private sessions.

Being among the tribe of “Wounded Warriors” now and then, we were delighted to discover solid advice on the Suzie Trains Maui website and on the Naish surfing website. We are most recently doing some interesting core work that’s fun and challenging. We want to be ready when we grab our Naish Glides and Mana series surfboards in 63 short days. Yes, drooling can commence when you see the image (below).

The Glide and Mana series are calling my name!

Over the winter months we have been training with TRX and the Indo Board. Guided by Suzie’s video and e-mail support we make progress. Since we’re rarely actually out having great fun standup paddling these last months (but the skiing has been great) the most important part of Suzie’s connection with us is an unabashed love of the ocean, the wind, the waves and the glides! We can easily use the GoPro HERO to film segments of our technique, then have a variety of people give us input. Editing clips of GoPro footage is easy – easy to edit and easy to share.

Suzie’s regular e-mail updates and blog articles are almost as good as being there. Yes, we wanted to be there when she paddled with whales. No, we didn’t want to be there when a large north shore winter wave smacked her onto a reef (yes, there was some blood). Through it all, enthusiasm reigns!

Recently we exchanged an e-mail, I had some concern about my technique and an old series of knee injuries. Suzie replied, “I bet you’re getting excited! Train, train and train! The ol’ knees will be warmer here, so don’t worry.” That connected to our balance, strength, agility and power routines will get us there (did I say 56 days?)

I can see Suzie on the Glide now. She described a recent workout, “Surf is huge still and I caught a long wave on the Glide yesterday. I was coming into the harbor after my laps. It was waist high. Too fun!”

SUP MUSE: Karen Wrenn

Posted on March 7, 2013 by Water Words

There are many meaning of “muse” – both as a noun and as a verb. One meaning I like is describing a muse as an inspiration, a catalyst for change. We can have many muses on our journey in life, in sport and adventure. Karen Wrenn inspires many – an active “verb” of a person. She’s also a true catalyst for change. Do you want to be better at something and reach new goals? I know I do, and I know that I can do it better when a muse helps along the way. Karen, Naish team rider, seems to always be on the move sharing her spirit and aloha for standup paddling.

KIALOA captured the determination and drive that Karen Wrenn harnesses during winter training

Ask a busy person! I did, and Karen generously shared some time and insights. First, some background: Few are more busy than Karen – wife, mother, friend, athlete, teacher and SUP superwoman. We all know that honing our skills and keeping whatever our personal “athletic edge” might be is a full-time effort. In the cold and wet Pacific Northwest, staying trained and motivated takes a bit more psyching up. The recent photo used in a cool ad for KIALOA paddles captures that “brace yourself for a cold an challenging training run” moment perfectly.

I have been less determined to brave the wet and cold through January and February – then March arrived with a few days that shouted “SPRING” with abundant sun and little wind. No question! It was time to head to the Deschutes River and take a few loops. No one else was out that day. It was a visual and sensory wonderland to be gliding up-current and getting cobwebs out of arms, trunk and legs. Luckily, I had my GoPro with the board suction mount. It stayed on solidly and could be shifted from front view to back view easily.

The next day was full of OUCH! I watched the video of my paddle (see above) noticing a strange inward rotation of my knees and a waggle of the hips that seemed out of place. I had just gone through my first of three series of knee injections (yup, the old meniscus has apparently vanished). The last thing I want to do is annoy my knee further. So I sent off the video to Karen for some insights. We had connected at the Naish Gorge Paddle Challenge last year when she encouraged me as I tried the fast and sleek Naish Glide for the first time.

You may want to have your own technique guide do what Karen suggested, film from behind for a better view of body mechanics. The second suggestion was to adjust my stance from time to time. Karen explains, ” One thing I do all the time when something is bothering me is to play around with my stance. I think with a bit of a narrower stance you might not be able to lean the knee in so much Or, possibly a slightly staggered stance might help to. If you haven’t already… play around with that. Try a narrow, try a wider than usual and a slightly staggered stance and see what happens.”

Karen’s next suggestion reinforced my commitment to the twists and stretches of yoga, “Try to also focus on the torso rotation being a little higher making it happen through the rib cage instead of by your hips. When I am paddling really hard and efficiently I feel sore through my the sides of my ribcage. If the rotation is happening a little higher you might find that your hips stay a little more fixed and that would cause less inward knee movement. It would give you the torso rotation and take it out of so much arms.”

There is no doubt that I will take these few suggestions to the river and to my indoor TRX training. Motivated even more – it’s only 56 days until Ed and I head to Maui, get our Naish 14′ Glides and prep for the Olukai Ho’olaule’a Maliko Run. Yipppeee! And thanks so much for your suggestions, Karen!

Elder SUP

Connecting Across Generations and Oceans

Monthly Archives: March 2013